By: Team RajaFashions, Hong Kong Bureau | Tailoring

Pattern Making 001

A suit that has been hand made to fit you perfectly has the potential to make you look and feel great and by choosing a bespoke tailor-made suit is a worthwhile investment for a special occasion. Behind every stylish bespoke suit lies great hand-drafted patterns. The most common drafting methods used by the top-end bespoke tailors are pattern manipulation and drafting formula.

A skilled tailor will begin by taking many detailed measurements whilst taking into account your body shape, your stance and your gait before creating a hand-crafted pattern. This is where choosing a bespoke suit really comes into its own and because all tailor-made suits are cut from a hand-drafted pattern, they offer unparalleled fit.

Pattern Manipulation is the most common system used. A pre-existing basic block pattern is used as a template, a starting point to create an improved, individual bespoke pattern. This will obviously match your dimensions, but most importantly, it will have the correct figuration details, such as how you stand, erect or stooping and the likes.

Don’t confuse this with a factory made-to-measure – all you are getting there is the most basic of adjustments – chest, waist and length, etc, to gain an ‘adequate’, standardized fit. With bespoke pattern manipulation, an experienced tailor will tweak with all the points to produce a new, individual template that’s true to your figure.

The another commonly used method is Drafting Formula where using your individual measurements, a pattern is drafted by scratch using the most exacting of standards. It’s very clinical and scientific. Everything is measured with a ruler to the greatest degree of precision possible, much like an engineering drawing, using a drafting square and a scale formula.

The drafting formula is extremely intricate, and everything must be checked and double-checked. There are slightly different methods seldom used, but they all involve a lot of measuring and calculation.

Our reputation as one of the finest bespoke tailors in Hong Kong, has been built by generations of talented craftsmen over the past 65 years, giving the highest satisfaction to those men and women who entrusted us with their sartorial appearance. Connect with our specialized globetrotting team to get a matchless bespoke experience.

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